“In the Realm of Everest”

by Jone Kalouniviti

WHAT began as an initiative to raise funds for children and adults with cerebral palsy, has seen Carol Cinavi Wilkinson go down in history as the first Fijian to scale the famed Himalayan Range and conquer Mt Kala Patthar.


Many trekkers in the world who are mystified by Everest will first attempt to summit Kala Patthar, since it provides the most accessible point to view Mt. Everest. Kala Patthar is 5,643 metres above sea level and the whole expedition lasts a total of 13 days. Mt Everest is 8,848 metres. 
Carol made the decision to join SCOPE last year, an organization committed to promoting equality for people with disabilities. The organization has gone on seven expeditions to the Himalayan ranges to raise funds. By joining the Everest Expedition crew, Carol pledged to raise 3,500 pounds for SCOPE.
“What an adventure, it was 14 days of strenuous trekking at high altitude on beaten tracks of stone and dust, living predominantly on chapattis, potatoes and vegetables and sleeping in shared rent accommodation with communal mess areas,” says Carol.
“All 17 trekkers, a local Doctor, a representative from Scope, a trek leader from the Ultimate Travel Company and 17 support staff of a sirdar, sherpas, porters, a chef, kitchen hands and yak herders were a “family” by the end of this incredible journey.

“The 37 of us assisted by 10 yaks, plied the trade routes each day sharing it with other yak trains, Nepalese traders, school children, porters and a dozen or so other trekkers.’’ 
The team trekked through wide and steep glacial valleys above the foothills of the highest mountain ranges in the world where temperatures dropped to as low as minus 15 Degrees Celsius during the night.
Each day they were surrounded by fabulous mountain views, passing villages and tea houses nestled on the side of the mountains and valleys, and through forest areas.
They were however fortunate to have good weather for 12 of the 14 days; beautiful days with clear blue skies and temperatures probably not exceeding 12°C.
“At altitudes over 3,800m we had light snowfall at night and even though the mornings were frosty, sunrise would begin to bring welcome warmth to our day after a long night cocooned in our sleeping bags for almost 10 hours! Wash days were unheard of in the mountains and the freezing temperatures kept odours, bugs and mosquitoes away……..thank goodness!” says Carol.
The group escaped all the effects of altitude sickness with the help a doctor who decided from day two of the trek to dose all foreigners in the group, regimentally each morning and evening with diamox.
The drug forces the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate. By increasing the amount of bicarbonate excreted in the urine, the blood becomes more acidic. Acidifying the blood stimulates ventilation, which is beneficial during acclimatization at high altitudes.
“But despite this, two trekkers did not make it to the summit of Kala Patthar and another succumbing to evacuation by helicopter on the first day of our descent,” says Carol.
“For those of us who reached the summit on the 1st of March 2008, there was such exhilaration, overwhelming feeling of success and absolute exhaustion from the slow and steep 400m ascent to the 5545m peak of Mount Kala Patthar.
“Its quite an experience, to personally experience the aura of being surrounded by the sheer magnificence of the Himalayas and the fabulous scenery that cannot be captured all at once by camera,’’ says Carol.
Born and raised in Suva, Carol (nee- Ah Yuk) left Fiji in 1987 for New Zealand with her husband and three children.
With her husband’s work schedule taking him around the world, life for the Wilkinsons became one happy adventure after another. After being posted across Asia from Indonesia, Singapore, China to Hong Kong, Carol developed a love for the outdoors and in this instance trekking.

  “In 2000 my husband, son (youngest in the family) and I left NZ for Indonesia. My husband was contracted to work there and we lived in Jakarta for 20 months where my son completed his high school education at the Jakarta International School.
“From Indonesia we were posted to Singapore. This was a job promotion for my husband, Roger and we lived there for over 3 years.
Their children are now scattered all over the world with their eldest daughter in Hong Kong, another in Holland and their son in the Maldives.
Scaling the lies of Kala Patthar is no easy feat as Mai Life researched. The whole trip lasts around 13 days with approximately 10-20 km of trekking every day with gains and losses in altitudes from the number of ascents and descents and twists and turns of the trail.

“This was a long and demanding trek and was a tremendous challenge both physically and mentally,” says Carol.
“The trek to Everest Base began in late winter and at high altitudes the cold can be bitter and dangerous, with overnight temperatures plummeting to -15°C it does not sound inviting at all, especially at the thought of sleeping in “pup” tents when there are no tea-houses available!
“Why did we trek at this time of the year? It was the dry seavson, the air is crystal clear and the mountain scenery was superb. This was Scope’s 7th Expedition to Everest Base Camp so I relied a lot on their experience and expertise in this adventure.
With over six months of training under her belt, Carol was fighting fit and mentally prepared for what she says was an experience of a lifetime. Carol used Hong Kong as her training base which offered some excellent hiking trails and scenery with hiking trails lasting up to six hours to traverse.
“I am indebted to all my sponsors. The response has been overwhelming and I have almost reached my target of £7,000. This is truly a magnificent effort and it makes me so proud to achieve this through their generosity.”
“I would like to take this opportunity to say a special thank you to the sponsorships received from India and a huge thank you to QBE Hong Kong & Shanghai Insurance for their very generous donation.
Carol says that at the end of it all, the combined efforts of the trekkers will help SCOPE continue its valuable and vital work to enable children and adults with cerebral palsy to lead more fulfilling and rewarding lives.
Carol returned back home to Hong Kong on 9 March 2008 after the 14 day expedition.
“I spend my time training for the next adventure, traveling to visit my children and often accompanying my husband on his business trips (this is the only way I get to spend time with him as he spends 8 - 9 months a year traveling throughout Asia, USA and Europe for business.
Carol and Roger try to visit Fiji at least once a year to catch up with family and friends.